參觀世博那天實在走了太多路,次天起床時周身酸痛,遂打消乘火車到小鎮 Pavia 觀光的念頭,改為輕輕鬆鬆地在米蘭市內閒逛。從旅遊書裡得知米蘭差不多每天也有市集,星期一的那個位於 Via San Marco。看過地圖,從酒店徒步至市集只需二十分鐘路程,便決定慢慢走過去。
米蘭自古時以來已是重要經濟中心,所以市內有不少舊運河。走到 Via San Marco, 發現那裡也有一段已乾枯的舊運河, 而不遠處便是小市集。市集麻雀雖小,五臟俱全,有一般街市的肉檔、蔬菜水果檔、也有賣家居雜貨等,最特別是在盛夏竟然有檔攤專賣名牌茄士咩毛衣的月下貨!雖然價錢是正價的一半,但在三十度高溫下真是沒本事把毛衣試上身上,所以只是和檔主閒聊一會便離開。
穿過充滿獨立小店和咖啡店,餐廳與教堂林立的古老小區 Brera 便到達米蘭著名的歌劇院 Teatro alla Scala。筆者此行並無打算重踏以前已參觀過的地方,匆匆穿過毗鄰的 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 商場便找地方吃午餐。跟著旅遊網站推介,在離大教堂不遠的一條恬靜小巷找到一家看來頗地道的小餐廳。
餐牌全是意大利文,有不少是完全沒見過的名字,幸好筆者一心想吃米蘭地道食品,便只看寫著 Milanese (米蘭式) 的菜式。意大利人和華人真相似,動物哪個部位都不錯過,原來有數個菜式是腦,肝等內臟。用手機上網一查,一個叫 foiolo alla Milanese 好像是茄汁金錢肚,便向不會說英語的侍應問是不是 trippa (因為筆者曾在那不勒斯吃過牛肚,所以記得牛肚叫 trippa),侍應有趣地指著自己的腰腹,把筆者笑個半死。把大碟牛肚吃光(貪心的人當然還吃了麵包,蔬菜,又喝了紅酒和咖啡),十分滿足地離開。
向來在意大利都是一日一雪糕,雖然剛吃過午飯,又走到大教堂附近的雪糕店吃雪糕,然後才向下個目的地進發。不消十來分鐘便乘地鐵到達位於 Navigli 區的 Porta Genova 站。Navigli 解作運河,顧名思義是運河區。那裡有兩條運河,叫 Naviglio Grande 的那條連結穿過意瑞兩國的 Ticino 河,小的那條叫 Naviglio Pavese, 正是連結米蘭與之前提及的 Pavia。下午時分烈日當空,運河旁的酒吧和餐廳都關了門。據說 Navigli 區要到傍晚時分才會開始熱鬧起來,餐廳與酒吧統統把桌椅放到馬路上,米蘭的年輕人放工後便到那裡與朋友消遣,有不少酒吧還提供小型自助餐,買飲料便可隨意進食自助餐的美食。
筆者源著 Naviglio Grande 走,走了一會便看見一個寫著 Mercato Metropolitano 的大鐵閘,Mercato 解作街市,筆者當然不會錯過,便進去看個究竟。原來那個「街市」是由世博主題泛生出來,利用火車站旁的荒廢舊貨倉和空地,建了一個農夫市場,內裡有意大利各地的美食小檔,還有小劇場讓學者、農民與市民有互動的平台。參觀過後,走回兩運河交匯處 Darsena, 由於天氣實在太炎熱,在那裡一家咖啡店坐下,喝了杯意大利人愛喝的 Aperol Spritz 後旅程便結束,乘車回米蘭站再轉車往機場去。
米蘭自古時以來已是重要經濟中心,所以市內有不少舊運河。走到 Via San Marco, 發現那裡也有一段已乾枯的舊運河, 而不遠處便是小市集。市集麻雀雖小,五臟俱全,有一般街市的肉檔、蔬菜水果檔、也有賣家居雜貨等,最特別是在盛夏竟然有檔攤專賣名牌茄士咩毛衣的月下貨!雖然價錢是正價的一半,但在三十度高溫下真是沒本事把毛衣試上身上,所以只是和檔主閒聊一會便離開。
穿過充滿獨立小店和咖啡店,餐廳與教堂林立的古老小區 Brera 便到達米蘭著名的歌劇院 Teatro alla Scala。筆者此行並無打算重踏以前已參觀過的地方,匆匆穿過毗鄰的 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 商場便找地方吃午餐。跟著旅遊網站推介,在離大教堂不遠的一條恬靜小巷找到一家看來頗地道的小餐廳。
餐牌全是意大利文,有不少是完全沒見過的名字,幸好筆者一心想吃米蘭地道食品,便只看寫著 Milanese (米蘭式) 的菜式。意大利人和華人真相似,動物哪個部位都不錯過,原來有數個菜式是腦,肝等內臟。用手機上網一查,一個叫 foiolo alla Milanese 好像是茄汁金錢肚,便向不會說英語的侍應問是不是 trippa (因為筆者曾在那不勒斯吃過牛肚,所以記得牛肚叫 trippa),侍應有趣地指著自己的腰腹,把筆者笑個半死。把大碟牛肚吃光(貪心的人當然還吃了麵包,蔬菜,又喝了紅酒和咖啡),十分滿足地離開。
向來在意大利都是一日一雪糕,雖然剛吃過午飯,又走到大教堂附近的雪糕店吃雪糕,然後才向下個目的地進發。不消十來分鐘便乘地鐵到達位於 Navigli 區的 Porta Genova 站。Navigli 解作運河,顧名思義是運河區。那裡有兩條運河,叫 Naviglio Grande 的那條連結穿過意瑞兩國的 Ticino 河,小的那條叫 Naviglio Pavese, 正是連結米蘭與之前提及的 Pavia。下午時分烈日當空,運河旁的酒吧和餐廳都關了門。據說 Navigli 區要到傍晚時分才會開始熱鬧起來,餐廳與酒吧統統把桌椅放到馬路上,米蘭的年輕人放工後便到那裡與朋友消遣,有不少酒吧還提供小型自助餐,買飲料便可隨意進食自助餐的美食。
筆者源著 Naviglio Grande 走,走了一會便看見一個寫著 Mercato Metropolitano 的大鐵閘,Mercato 解作街市,筆者當然不會錯過,便進去看個究竟。原來那個「街市」是由世博主題泛生出來,利用火車站旁的荒廢舊貨倉和空地,建了一個農夫市場,內裡有意大利各地的美食小檔,還有小劇場讓學者、農民與市民有互動的平台。參觀過後,走回兩運河交匯處 Darsena, 由於天氣實在太炎熱,在那裡一家咖啡店坐下,喝了杯意大利人愛喝的 Aperol Spritz 後旅程便結束,乘車回米蘭站再轉車往機場去。
The morning after visiting World Expo, every muscle in my body was aching from overworking the day before. Straight away the original plan of catching a train out to visit a nearby small town called Pavia was ditched. Instead, an easy stroll around town was the order for the day. After a quick look on the internet I discovered there is a weekly market on Via San Marco, some twenty minutes walk away, through some nondescript roads with brutalist Sixties commercial buildings.
At the top of the street there is a dried up old canal, a proof that Milan has always been an important economic centre. A block away is the street market, one of those small local markets that sells everything, so you would find a butcher stall next to a homeware stall next to a green grocer stall. I always love looking at the gorgeous displays at the fruits and vegetables stalls as Italy has such excellent fresh produce. When I spotted some gigantic fresh porcini mushrooms, I'd wished my flight was earlier just so I could buy some back to London!
Amongst the stalls selling clothing and homeware, the most interesting is one that sells cashmere jumpers, in the height of summer! The stall even gets a mention in one famous guidebook for selling off-season high end cashmere tops at steep discounts. There certainly were loads to choose from, but I really could not bring myself to try anything on in 30+ degree heat!
Moving on, I passed through the streets of Brera, a district with some of the most gorgeous old houses, small alleys with individual shops, cafes and restaurants, with a church seemingly at every other corner. Teatro alla Scala, the famous Milan opera house is only a short walk from Brera, and the opera house is a stone throw away from two other famous landmarks in Milan - Duomo di Milano and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Since I have been to Milan before and have already visited these places, I only stopped very briefly for photos then moved on to a more important destination - somewhere to eat!
Following the recommendations of a certain guidebooks, I found a little trattoria (family-run type restaurants) less than ten minutes walk from the Duomo, in a quiet small alley. The menu displayed outside looks completely foreign as many dishes are local to the region, but what the heck, I went in. As I was keen to try some local dishes, I aimed for those that say Milanese. Luckily with data roaming, I was able to quickly look up what some of them are, for apparently Milanese eat most parts of an animal so things like brains and livers are on the menu! One dish drew my interest - foiolo alla Milanese. Google images tell me it's beef tripes in tomato sauce, so I asked the waiter (who speaks no English) if it's "trippa" (I remembered this word from a previous trip to Naples), and he nodded while pointing to his belly! Interested to see how the Milanese tripes differ to the Naplese ones, I ordered one. Being the greedy traveller that I am, I also had bread and some vegetables from the buffet, all washed down with red wine, and finished with an espresso (though Italians never call it espresso, they just say caffé or caffé normale).
Despite feeling about to pop after lunch, I couldn't resist the temptation of the quintessential Italian summer treat - gelato. I had to it so quickly since it was starting to melt in no time! After a quick walk around the Duomo area and buying a moka express (stove top espresso pot), I hopped onto the metro to head to my next destination - Porta Genova. This metro stop belongs to an area called Navigli, which means canal in Italian, so it's no surprise that this area is the canal area with Navigli Grande running all the way to join with Ticino River, and Navigli Pavese running to Pavia (which I almost went to).
As it was mid afternoon when I visited, the area was very quiet. Along the canals there are many restaurants and bars, and they apparently all spring to life at dusk, when tables and chairs are laid onto the streets, with most bars offering a wonderful array of apericena (see my earlier post on apericena) to pull in punters.
As I walked along Navigli Grande, I spotted an old metal gate across the road that says "Mercato Metropolitano". Given that I love markets, my eyes lit up and I hopped over immediately to investigate. It turns out, Mercato Metropolitano is a project born out of the Expo's theme of "Feeding the Planet". Utilising a disused warehouse and the adjacent land near Porta Genova station, a group of farmers, producers, cooperatives and artisans have put together a farmers' market, a large indoor/outdoor food hall with foods from various regions, and a stage where seminars, tasting events and presentations are regularly held.
After walking around for a while, the afternoon heat was getting unbearable so I took a break near Darsena, where Navigli Grande and Navigli Pavese meet. There I sat down at a cafe, enjoyed a glass of refreshing Aperol Spritz while watching the world go by. After that I did a little last minute shopping, then it was time to head to Milano Centrale to make my way home to London.
At the top of the street there is a dried up old canal, a proof that Milan has always been an important economic centre. A block away is the street market, one of those small local markets that sells everything, so you would find a butcher stall next to a homeware stall next to a green grocer stall. I always love looking at the gorgeous displays at the fruits and vegetables stalls as Italy has such excellent fresh produce. When I spotted some gigantic fresh porcini mushrooms, I'd wished my flight was earlier just so I could buy some back to London!
Amongst the stalls selling clothing and homeware, the most interesting is one that sells cashmere jumpers, in the height of summer! The stall even gets a mention in one famous guidebook for selling off-season high end cashmere tops at steep discounts. There certainly were loads to choose from, but I really could not bring myself to try anything on in 30+ degree heat!
Moving on, I passed through the streets of Brera, a district with some of the most gorgeous old houses, small alleys with individual shops, cafes and restaurants, with a church seemingly at every other corner. Teatro alla Scala, the famous Milan opera house is only a short walk from Brera, and the opera house is a stone throw away from two other famous landmarks in Milan - Duomo di Milano and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Since I have been to Milan before and have already visited these places, I only stopped very briefly for photos then moved on to a more important destination - somewhere to eat!
Following the recommendations of a certain guidebooks, I found a little trattoria (family-run type restaurants) less than ten minutes walk from the Duomo, in a quiet small alley. The menu displayed outside looks completely foreign as many dishes are local to the region, but what the heck, I went in. As I was keen to try some local dishes, I aimed for those that say Milanese. Luckily with data roaming, I was able to quickly look up what some of them are, for apparently Milanese eat most parts of an animal so things like brains and livers are on the menu! One dish drew my interest - foiolo alla Milanese. Google images tell me it's beef tripes in tomato sauce, so I asked the waiter (who speaks no English) if it's "trippa" (I remembered this word from a previous trip to Naples), and he nodded while pointing to his belly! Interested to see how the Milanese tripes differ to the Naplese ones, I ordered one. Being the greedy traveller that I am, I also had bread and some vegetables from the buffet, all washed down with red wine, and finished with an espresso (though Italians never call it espresso, they just say caffé or caffé normale).
Despite feeling about to pop after lunch, I couldn't resist the temptation of the quintessential Italian summer treat - gelato. I had to it so quickly since it was starting to melt in no time! After a quick walk around the Duomo area and buying a moka express (stove top espresso pot), I hopped onto the metro to head to my next destination - Porta Genova. This metro stop belongs to an area called Navigli, which means canal in Italian, so it's no surprise that this area is the canal area with Navigli Grande running all the way to join with Ticino River, and Navigli Pavese running to Pavia (which I almost went to).
As it was mid afternoon when I visited, the area was very quiet. Along the canals there are many restaurants and bars, and they apparently all spring to life at dusk, when tables and chairs are laid onto the streets, with most bars offering a wonderful array of apericena (see my earlier post on apericena) to pull in punters.
As I walked along Navigli Grande, I spotted an old metal gate across the road that says "Mercato Metropolitano". Given that I love markets, my eyes lit up and I hopped over immediately to investigate. It turns out, Mercato Metropolitano is a project born out of the Expo's theme of "Feeding the Planet". Utilising a disused warehouse and the adjacent land near Porta Genova station, a group of farmers, producers, cooperatives and artisans have put together a farmers' market, a large indoor/outdoor food hall with foods from various regions, and a stage where seminars, tasting events and presentations are regularly held.
After walking around for a while, the afternoon heat was getting unbearable so I took a break near Darsena, where Navigli Grande and Navigli Pavese meet. There I sat down at a cafe, enjoyed a glass of refreshing Aperol Spritz while watching the world go by. After that I did a little last minute shopping, then it was time to head to Milano Centrale to make my way home to London.